In October last year, two friends — Adrian Fischer and Sandro Büttel — set off for a 2.5-month bikepacking journey across Southeast Asia. Their plan was simple yet ambitious: ride from Hanoi in Vietnam to Chiang Mai in Thailand, sticking as much as possible to small roads and mountain routes, far away from the tourist trails and busy cities.
Before meeting in Hanoi at the beginning of November, Sandro had already been traveling in Nepal. Both had visited these countries years earlier, but never by bike. This time, they wanted to rediscover the region with a slower rhythm, powered only by their legs, and see how much had changed since their first visits.
Vietnam – Mist, Smiles, and Curious Villages
Vietnam greeted them with smiles at every turn. In the countryside, English disappeared almost entirely, so communication became a mix of hand gestures, body language, and the occasional lifeline of Google Translate. The northern landscapes were misty and damp, with mornings swallowed in fog and the air heavy with moisture.
Following the Laos border brought unexpected detours. Twice, the pair were stopped by the military and turned back from the restricted border zone. Yet the diversions led to memorable moments. One evening, searching desperately for a campsite before nightfall, they asked permission to pitch their tents in a village cornfield. Minutes later, the entire village had gathered — children laughing, families chatting, everyone intrigued by the two cyclists. Adrian and Sandro, tired and hungry, had hoped for a quiet evening, but instead found themselves surrounded until late into the night. Exhausting, yes — but unforgettable.
Laos – River Roads and Timeless Simplicity
Laos was the country they had been most excited to revisit, and it quickly lived up to their memories. Away from tourist hubs, life felt timeless. Families lived in bamboo huts, electricity was scarce, animals roamed free, and the people radiated warmth. The children, especially, were endlessly curious. At times it felt as though they were seeing Westerners for the very first time — eyes wide, laughter breaking the silence as the cyclists pedaled past.
One of the trip’s highlights came when the road simply ended at the Mekong River. The only way forward was to load their bikes onto a wooden boat and drift across to the next town. With misty mountains as a backdrop and the calm river flowing past, the moment felt like stepping into another world. They stayed a few extra days there, savoring the quiet rhythm of life along the Mekong.
Thailand – Steep Roads and Foggy Mornings
Thailand, however, greeted them with a challenge: brutally steep climbs and punishing heat. Many of the gravel roads they had planned to ride had been resurfaced into tarmac, so their tires rolled more on asphalt than expected.
Food, though, became easier. In Vietnam and Laos, being vegetarians meant surviving mostly on endless bowls of noodle soup — often with a lingering doubt about whether some meat might still be hidden inside. Thailand was a relief: a wider variety of meals, and the beloved 7-Eleven stores appearing every ten kilometers with shelves full of snacks and cold drinks.
The campsites were some of the most beautiful of the whole trip — but always soaked in fog by morning. No matter how high they climbed, everything was wet when they woke up. For their final night, Adrian and Sandro chose a special place: 1,800 meters above sea level, near a temple overlooking the mountains outside Chiang Mai. The sunset was breathtaking, the silence profound. They hoped the altitude would finally lift them above the fog. Morning came, and with it — fog again. They laughed. At least they tried.
Reflections at the End of the Road
The adventure ended in Chiang Mai, where the two spent a few days enjoying the city before heading home. Looking back, the journey gave them exactly what they had hoped for: wild landscapes, genuine encounters with kind people, and the freedom of the road. The northern mountains of Southeast Asia remain vibrant and green, even as bulldozers and trucks signal the relentless spread of development and China’s influence through massive land and water projects.
It wasn’t always easy. Damp mornings, relentless climbs, and uncertain meals tested their patience. But bikepacking isn’t about perfection — it’s about embracing the challenges. These moments of discomfort are what shape the journey, transform ordinary days into adventure, and etch lasting memories into the heart.
2.5 months. 3 countries. Countless smiles. Endless fog. And an adventure that will stay with Adrian and Sandro forever.